Install these pins in a plate or table and mate with holes in a workpiece for precise alignment.

The shoulder provides a consistent height reference point and keeps the pin from being pressed through the fixture.

A slightly undersized shank makes these pins easy to install and replace. Also known as slip-fit and lock-screw locating pins, they are held in place by a separate lock screw.

Precisely align drilled holes in two parts.

Support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side. These buttons press into a drilled hole for permanent installation.

Mount through the counterbored hole with a socket head cap screw to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side.

As the workpiece pushes against the pin head in one direction, the internal spring pushes back to hold it in place for clamping.

Threading makes these guide pins easier to remove and replace than press fit, so they're useful for high-wear applications.

Use these metal dowel pins as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Oversized to fit worn and enlarged holes, these pins work well as repair and replacement parts.

To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.

A spiral groove cut into these pins relieves trapped air but stays in 360° contact with the hole for a secure fit that's easy to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

These pins are commonly used as anchors for tension springs. The grooved half locks pins in position, and spring ends fit in to the notch. Also known as type G pins.

Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.

Use these pins to fasten components made of soft materials such as plastic or aluminum. Opposing barbs bite into each piece, pulling them together for a tight, secure fit.

Use these as pivot or hinge pins. The knurled half locks pins in position, while the smooth half acts as a pivot.

These pins adjust to take up play in a system or hold parts in holes of varying thicknesses. Spin the handle up or down, then tighten the locknut to change the length by up to ½”. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

Use the key to unlock these pins, then press the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.

A smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

These pins have a low-profile head, so they won't get knocked out of place. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.

These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.

Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

Threads on these pins stick out for easy removal from blind holes. Tighten the hex nut to draw the pin out.

Pass these pins through a mounting hole and weld the head to the surface.

Choose a material, head type, end type, and size to create a custom pin.

Retract the nose by pulling the knob.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the handle and rotating it 90°.

The ring allows you to attach these spring plungers to a lanyard.

Use the lanyard as a tether to secure the spring plunger to machinery and prevent accidental drops.

Thread onto machinery or attach a knob or handle to the threaded spindle.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.

A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The T-handle is easy to grip.

A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.

An L-handle takes up less space than a T-handle.

Lock the nose in the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.

Insert the nose into a panel; then thread on the nut and tighten using an installation wrench.

Noses are up to four times longer than standard long-nose press-fit spring plungers.

Install with a driver.

These spring plungers have a nose that is about three-times longer than standard long hex-nose spring plungers.

Designed with a flange to keep the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.

Install these spring plungers with a screwdriver—they're slotted on one or both ends.

Line up holes by driving these pins through existing rivet, pin, and bolt holes in multiple pieces of metal. Alternatively known as lineup taper punches.

Turn the pin and the tapered shaft forces the two holes into alignment.