We will reply to your message in the morning.
To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.
The flat side of these pins relieves trapped air, making them easier to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.
A spiral groove cut into these pins relieves trapped air but stays in 360° contact with the hole for a secure fit that's easy to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.
Threads on these pins stick out for easy removal from blind holes. Tighten the hex nut to draw the pin out.
These internally threaded pins sit flush in an assembly. For easy removal from a blind hole, thread a screw into the pin and pull out.
Choose a material, head type, end type, and size to create a custom pin.
Create a custom headed pin with your choice of material, dimensions, and end type.
Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.
Screw these studs into a tapped hole and use them as a pivot point, hinge, shaft, or locator pin.
Screw the threaded end of these metric studs into a tapped hole and use the unthreaded end as a pivot point, hinge, shaft, or locator pin.
Also known as hood pins, these studs have a cotter pin lodged through a drilled hole in the unthreaded portion for light duty holding, such as securing access panels and locking other fasteners.
Turn these studs with a hex key for ease of installation.
These studs are also known as hanger bolts—use them to hang, mount, and fasten parts to wood structures.
18-8 stainless steel studs have good chemical resistance and may be mildly magnetic. Also known as hanger bolts, use them to hang, mount, and fasten parts to wood structures.
These metric 316 stainless steel studs have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water. Also known as hanger bolts, use them to hang, mount, and fasten parts to wood structures.
These studs have good chemical resistance. Weld them to stainless steel surfaces.
Weld these studs to uncoated steel surfaces.
Pass these studs through a hole and weld them in place.
These steel studs are zinc plated to resist corrosion in wet environments.
18-8 stainless steel studs have good chemical resistance.
316 stainless steel studs have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.
Add a stud to thin material when you only have access to one side.
A hollow center allows these studs to be used as an axle, a vent, or a passageway for wiring.
Also known as dowel screws, use these to join two pieces of wood.
Retract the nose by pulling the knob.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.
Quickly align, join, or hold machine components in place in food, pharmaceutical, and other sanitary environments. Pulling the plunger knob and twisting it 90° will lock the nose into its retracted position.
The ring allows you to attach these spring plungers to a lanyard.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the ring and rotating it 90°.
Use the lanyard as a tether to secure the spring plunger to machinery and prevent accidental drops.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the handle and rotating it 90°.
Thread onto machinery or attach a knob or handle to the threaded spindle.
Install by hand or with a hex key in low-clearance applications.
Insert the nose into a panel; then thread on the nut and tighten using an installation wrench.
Lock the nose in the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.
Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.
Install with a driver.
Slotted on both ends for installation with a screwdriver.
These spring plungers have a nose that is about three-times longer than standard long hex-nose spring plungers.
Fasten from the nose end with a wrench for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.
Install these spring plungers with a screwdriver—they're slotted on one or both ends.
Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted ball-nose spring plungers.
Also known as tank-strap bolts, these T-bolts are commonly used with a band clamp or a strap to hold fuel tanks and other objects in place.
Also known as clamping pins, these bolts have a collar that slides along the shaft and can be welded in place to clamp work in place and prevent over torquing.
Place a cotter pin through the hole in the shank to keep a nut from loosening. These screws have a stronger hold than screws with thread lockers or lock washers.
Stainless steel thumb screws have excellent corrosion resistance in most environments.
Thread a screw through the tapped hole to pop these keys out of a keyway. When installed, they fill oval keyways completely, reducing stress on the key and shaft. The rounded ends make it easy to slide gears, hubs, and other components into place.
Screw the shank into a threaded hole for quick installation and removal.
Use these buttons to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side. Their hex shape lets you screw them into a threaded hole with a wrench or socket.
The swiveling tip supports uneven and angled surfaces.
Threading makes these guide pins easier to remove and replace than press fit, so they're useful for high-wear applications.
These rings mount to a trailer and connect to the drawbar coupler or tow hook on a vehicle.