Parts printed with these polyester filaments absorb less moisture than other types of plastic, making them ideal for use in wet or humid environments. They are more durable and flexible than PLA, and easier to print than ABS. Use these filaments with fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers, and print onto a heated print bed. Printing onto a cool surface causes the molten filament to change temperature rapidly, which can warp your designs. Although finished parts are moisture-resistant, these filaments are sensitive to humidity, and should be stored in a dehumidifying cabinet or a sealed container with desiccant for the best printing quality.

PETT forms strong bonds between layers, so prints will not split apart. It is often used to make large models with large layers.

PETG contains glycol, so it is less brittle and easier to print than PETT and PCTG. Carbon-fiber-filled PETG is often used to make rigid parts that are difficult to bend and break. Finished parts are easier to thread and machine than unfilled parts. Because these filaments are abrasive, use them only with abrasion-resistant nozzles.

Antistatic filaments make parts that prevent the buildup of static electricity. This helps prevent the buildup of dust or fibers on the surface of your finished part. However, they are not as effective at preventing electrostatic discharge as static-dissipative filaments.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Create molds around parts printed with these filaments. They’re PVB, so they vaporize cleanly from your mold, similar to wax in traditional investment casting and lost wax casting. For a smoother surface on your mold, before casting you can apply isopropyl alcohol to remove the layer lines from your printed parts. Apply using a brush, sprayer, or vapor bath.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament’s overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it’s the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Print these polypropylene filaments into filters, gaskets, and other lightweight, foam-like parts that let air and gas pass through but repel water. They contain a filler that dissolves in water, forming hollow spaces that make up 45% of the part. Polypropylene is known for being rigid yet flexible, so it absorbs impacts and bounces back to shape after bending, making these filaments good for compressible seals and living hinges. It also resists hydrocholoric and phosphoric acids, as well as other nonoxidizing acids and bases.

These filaments work with fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers. If using a glass print surface, apply an adhesive to prevent the filament from detaching. The recommended print speed is 25 mm/s. While polypropylene is likely to shrink, the filler in these filaments supports your design, preventing it from losing shape as it prints. Submerge your part in hot water for about 24 hours after printing to dissolve the filler and expose the pores.

For extra support when printing complex designs, use structural support 3D printer filaments. They dissolve in water at the same time as this filament’s filler.