Install these eye-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.

Use a new plug when installing a fitting on a different rope.

Place the wire rope and sleeve through a hole in the assembly block and tighten into a vise to hold. Then attach the plug driver on the end of a plug to make hammering in the plug easier.

Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these ball-with-shank-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.

Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these clevis-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.

Add an eye-end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.

Add a mounting plate to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.

Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty mounting-plate-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.

Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these eye-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.

Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these hook-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.

Constructed with a saddle for both the long (live) end and the short (dead) end, these clamps apply equal pressure without crimping or crushing the wire rope, so orientation doesn't matter. Also known as fist grip wire rope clips.

Install these clamps without any specific orientation, slide the nut over the rope and tighten it onto the threaded halves with a torque wrench.

Kits include clamps and thimbles to support a wire rope loop and prevent it from fraying. Clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end.

Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.

These thimbles are also known as thin pattern thimbles.

The open-end design leaves more room for connections than other thimbles.

Use these sleeves for non-lifting applications such as tethering, securing, and suspending.

These kits include two compression sleeves paired with two thimbles. The thimbles support the wire rope loops and prevent it from fraying.

Secure a ball with shank to a flat surface.

Use these to adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.

Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain and adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load.

The snap and split ring swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.

Use these to adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

The narrow end restricts the movement of rope and chain, and the wide end allows room to attach multiple connectors.

Use for three-sided connections. Flat sides ensure webbing and strapping lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.

The twisted shape of these links prevents loads from rotating or knotting.

Restrict rope and chain movement with the narrow end, attach multiple connectors to the wide end, and then hammer these links closed.

Strike the prongs with a ball peen hammer and they expand to hold the connecting link together.

Also known as lap links or repair links.

Limit rope and chain movement with the narrow end of these links and attach multiple connectors to the wide end.

Smaller than lifting oblong links, these links provide room for snaps, carabiners, and other non-lifting connectors.

The wide end of these links has more room for attachments than standard figure-eight links.

Once secured with the included locking pin, these links must be cut off to be removed.

Limit rope and chain movement with the narrow end of these links and attach multiple connectors to the wide end.

Providing better load distribution and alignment than single oblong links, these reduce wear in three and four leg slings.

Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

One end has a bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin for a more secure connection than flush-pin connectors.

Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

The strongest shackles we offer, these connectors have a pin with flush ends that prevents snagging and accidental disengagement.

Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

Since their pin doesn’t stick out from their body, these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a twisted shape to prevent rope and chain from twisting and knotting.

For use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

More secure than screw-pin shackles, these shackles close with a bolt that’s fastened with a nut and a cotter pin.

Secure each end with the cotter pins for temporary installations.

For use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.

The pin doesn’t stick out from their body, so these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.

Wrap these flexible shackles around a variety of anchor points.

The bolt on these shackles is fastened with a nut and cotter pin, making them more secure than shackles with a screw pin. Also known as D-shackles, they have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.

Disconnect by pulling the lever or attach rope to the eye on the lever for remote release.

Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access is limited. These shackes have a clevis end for making pivoting connections.

These snaps have an eye that rotates for easy positioning.

A wide opening accepts large diameters of rope and pipe. Squeeze the trigger to release.

The force of the load helps keep the arms closed. Press the trigger for quick connection and disconnection.

Lock the bolt with wire or a cable tie for a secure connection.

Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these have a latch to ensure that rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

Garolite insulation prevents electrical current from passing to hoists and other lifting equipment, causing damage. Because they're electrical insulating, these hooks are often used to hold a workpiece while welding.

Weld these hooks into place to create a permanent lifting device.

These have a removable half-link to attach large rings, links, and other closed fittings.

A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. The hook opening accommodates large anchor points and allows chain to move freely through the closed hook.

Use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points. Also known as foundry hooks.

With a narrow opening and contoured sides, these securely hold a single link of chain to prevent overtightening when lifting a load.

A spring-loaded pin ensures chain won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. Connect your chain to the eye end.

A ball-bearing swivel allows these hooks to rotate under load. Attach to chain by inserting the included pin through a link.

For a more secure connection than standard hooks, these hooks have a latch that locks closed when a load is lifted. A ball-bearing swivel allows them to rotate under a load.

For a more secure connection than standard hooks, the latch locks closed when a load is applied.

Screw these hooks into place and secure with the included nut.

Easily slip chain, rope, and fittings on and off these open-mouth hooks. Attach your chain to the clevis end.