Use these metal dowel pins as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.

Oversized to fit worn and enlarged holes, these pins work well as repair and replacement parts.

The flat side of these pins relieves trapped air, making them easier to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.

These pins are commonly used as anchors for tension springs. The grooved half locks pins in position, and spring ends fit in to the notch. Also known as type G pins.

Quarter-groove pins are well suited for hinges or pivots. The grooved end locks pins in position, while the smooth portion can act as a pivot. Also known as type C pins.

Pass wires and other components through these hollow pins.

Use these pins to fasten components made of soft materials such as plastic or aluminum. Opposing barbs bite into each piece, pulling them together for a tight, secure fit.

For use with Browning shear hubs, these pins are designed to fail at specific loads to protect heavy duty machinery from torque overload.

Center-knurled pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The knurled center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot.

These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.

Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

Threads on these pins stick out for easy removal from blind holes. Tighten the hex nut to draw the pin out.

Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A bright-orange plastic-coated handle makes these pins easy to see and easy to grip. Pins have a spring-loaded ball that pops out when the pin is pushed into a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A high-profile knob is easy to grip, but fits in small spaces. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.

For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

The extra height and smaller width of the grip make the button more accessible in tight spaces. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

When there isn't enough room for a T-handle, an L-handle saves space but is still easy to grip. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. Made entirely of stainless steel, they stand up to corrosive enviroments. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

Four spring-loaded retaining balls provide extra holding power. Made entirely of stainless steel, these pins stand up to corrosive enviroments. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

These pins adjust to take up play in a system or hold parts in holes of varying thicknesses. Spin the handle up or down, then tighten the locknut to change the length by up to ½”. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

These pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls, and can also be secured with a cotter pin for longer-term holding. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.

Also known as double-acting pins, these pins lock in place until you push or pull the handle to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. The T-handle is easy to grip.

Pass these pins through a mounting hole and weld the head to the surface.

Also known as gravity pins, these pins fit in holes on telescoping tubing to adjust the length.

Noses are up to four times longer than standard long-nose press-fit spring plungers.

Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

Fasten from the nose end with a wrench for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

Quickly align, join, or hold machine components in place in food, pharmaceutical, and other sanitary environments. Pulling the plunger knob and twisting it 90° will lock the nose into its retracted position.

Retract the nose by pulling the knob.

Use the lanyard as a tether to secure the spring plunger to machinery and prevent accidental drops.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the ring and rotating it 90°.

Install by hand or with a hex key in low-clearance applications.

A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The T-handle is easy to grip.

A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.

Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank.

Lock the nose in the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.

Two holes in the plate allow these plungers to be mounted to a flat surface.

Install these spring plungers with a screwdriver—they're slotted on one or both ends.

The flangeless design allows these spring plungers to mount flush with a surface.

Press these catches into a hole.

Maintain consistent alignment in mating parts by installing a pin in one part and a liner in the other.

The shoulder provides a consistent height reference point and keeps the pin from being pressed through the fixture.

Encase these pins while molding plastic or composite parts. Once set, the knurls resist movement, letting you align the workpiece with precision on a plate or table.

Precisely align drilled holes in two parts.

The head on these pins slides side-to-side in one direction. Use one of these pins and one standard round-head pin to prevent jamming when loading and unloading workpieces with inconsistent hole spacing.

As the workpiece pushes against the pin head in one direction, the internal spring pushes back to hold it in place for clamping.

Threading makes these guide pins easier to remove and replace than press fit, so they're useful for high-wear applications.

Thread in a screw, handle, or other part to create the right size and shape guide pin for your application.

Use these buttons to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side. Their hex shape lets you screw them into a threaded hole with a wrench or socket.

Mount through the counterbored hole with a socket head cap screw to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side.

Line up holes by driving these pins through existing rivet, pin, and bolt holes in multiple pieces of metal. Alternatively known as lineup taper punches.