Plastic pins are a nonconductive and nonmagnetic alternative to metal dowel pins. Use them as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Oversized to fit worn and enlarged holes, these pins work well as repair and replacement parts.

To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.

A spiral groove cut into these pins relieves trapped air but stays in 360° contact with the hole for a secure fit that's easy to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.

These pins are commonly used as anchors for tension springs. The grooved half locks pins in position, and spring ends fit in to the notch. Also known as type G pins.

Use these as pivot or hinge pins. The knurled half locks pins in position, while the smooth half acts as a pivot.

Center-knurled pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The knurled center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot.

Use these pins to fasten components made of soft materials such as plastic or aluminum. Opposing barbs bite into each piece, pulling them together for a tight, secure fit.

The low-profile head on these pins holds them in place on one side.

Also known as universal clevis pins, these pins have holes on 1/4" centers so you can change the length by moving the cotter pin.

Easier to install and remove than standard clevis pins, these pins have a ring-grip handle.

Install or remove these pins from either side. Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.

A spring holds these pins tight, while a toggle locks them in place. Flip the toggle to release the pin.

For the fastest installation, push these pins into a hole and a spring-loaded wedge pops out to lock them in place. Also known as slic pins.

These pins have a low-profile head, so they won't get knocked out of place. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

The smooth ring handle on these pins won't catch on parts. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.

Two spring-loaded balls give these pins more holding power than quick-release pins with only one retaining ball. The balls pop out when the pin is pushed into a hole, and retract when the pin is pulled out.

Use these pins for visibility or to color-code processes. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, they lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

When there isn't enough room for a T-handle, an L-handle saves space but is still easy to grip. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

A recessed button prevents accidental pin removal. These all-stainless steel pins stand up to corrosive environments. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. Made entirely of stainless steel, they stand up to corrosive enviroments. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

Also known as double-acting pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button or pull the ring to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. The smooth ring handle won't catch on parts.

Use the key to unlock these pins, then press the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.

Flip the handle 180° to expand and contract the shaft for a tight, vibration-resistant fit.

These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.

Use these pins with a die to punch 1/8" and larger holes. Pins can be modified to fit your application.

Slide the pin through a hole then snap the ring down to lock these pins in place. Also known as click pins.

Also known as roll, tension, split, and expansion pins, these pins have a slot along one side that you squeeze closed to install them into unthreaded holes.

For tough jobs, these spiral pins are 30% stronger than our standard coiled spring pins. They remain flexible after installation to absorb shock and vibration, and work well in holes that are out of round.

Choose a material, head type, end type, and size to create a custom pin.

Pass these pins through a mounting hole and weld the head to the surface.

These 316 stainless steel anchors have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.

Also known as drive rivets, install these anchors by hammering the pin into the body. Pry out the pin to remove.

Also known as drive rivets, install by hammering the screw into the body. Unthread the screw to remove.

A tamper-resistant nut prevents unwanted removal of the object you are anchoring.

These stud anchors strengthen the parts of buildings where steel framing connects to concrete. They’re also known as Nelson studs.

Support rounded or irregularly shaped workpieces from the bottom or side with minimal contact.