These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.

Install these clamps without any specific orientation, slide the nut over the rope and tighten it onto the threaded halves with a torque wrench.

Make a removable loop without specialty tools for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing. Also known as tiller clamps.

A clamp and thimble in one convenient fitting simplifies installation while providing support and fray protection to the wire rope loop. Use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.

Keep multiple sleeves on hand in a variety of sizes.

Use these sleeves for non-lifting applications such as tethering, securing, and suspending.

Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.

The open-end design leaves more room for connections than other thimbles.

Install these stud-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.

Use a new plug when installing a fitting on a different rope.

Place the wire rope and sleeve through a hole in the assembly block and tighten into a vise to hold. Then attach the plug driver on the end of a plug to make hammering in the plug easier.

Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these eye-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.

Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these stud-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.

Add a clevis end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.

Add a mounting-plate to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.

Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these hook-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.

Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty clevis-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.

Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty eye-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.

Secure a ball with shank to a flat surface.

The narrow end restricts the movement of rope and chain, and the wide end allows room to attach multiple connectors.

The twisted shape of these links prevents loads from rotating or knotting.

Use for three-sided connections. Flat sides ensure webbing and strapping lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied. They have a latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. The hook opening accommodates large anchor points and allows chain to move freely through the closed hook.

A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

These hooks swivel under load. They have a latch locks closed when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks.

For a more secure connection than standard hooks, these clevis hooks have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.

These have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks. They rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.

With a narrow opening and contoured sides, these securely hold a single link of chain to prevent overtightening when lifting a load.

A spring-loaded pin ensures chain won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. Connect your chain to the eye end.

Use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points. Also known as foundry hooks.

An unthreaded shank allows you to cut your own threads.

These swivel hooks have a latch that ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

The latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

Often used in binding and tie-down applications, these securely hold a single link of chain.

These kits fit most hooks with a drilled pinhole.

For a more secure connection than standard trigger-locking snaps, squeeze the trigger and slide the latch grip down to release.

A wide opening accepts large diameters of rope and pipe. Squeeze the trigger to release.

Lock the bolt with wire or a cable tie for a secure connection.

Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain and adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load.

Adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.

Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.

Adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access in limited. These shackes have a clevis end for making pivoting connections.

Disconnect by pulling the lever or attach rope to the eye on the lever for remote release.

Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.

The strongest shackles we offer, these connectors have a pin with flush ends that prevents snagging and accidental disengagement.

A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.

A lip on the shackle keeps the screw from falling out when loosened.

A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.

For use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.