The closed end prevents molten plastic from seeping in and clogging the threads. Designed for injection molding, these inserts become inseparable from your part. They form a stronger bond than heat-set and press-fit inserts and last longer than threads cut directly into material. Unlike heat-set inserts, these work in a wide variety of plastics, including thermoset plastics that can’t be reformed.

To install, position these inserts in your mold cavity with a core pin (not included).

Install helical inserts and break off prongs with one tool and a hammer strike. These tools have a slot that grips your insert’s prong for turning both left- and right-hand threads. Slide an insert onto these tools and drive them a quarter-turn to half-turn below the material’s surface. Then, strike the end of the tool with a hammer to break off the prong. These tools work with pronged helical inserts.

Attach these bits to a power drill or drill press to screw tapping inserts in plastic or wood. They thread into the full length of the insert to keep it straight and prevent tilting or wobbling during installation.

Mount components directly to plastic parts. The male threaded rod on these inserts creates an attachment point. Heat them on a hot plate and press the knurled end into a straight hole. The heat melts the surrounding plastic and as it cools, it hardens around the knurls.

Mold the strongest metal threads into plastic parts. Designed for injection molding, these inserts become inseparable from your part. They form a stronger bond than heat-set and press-fit inserts and are better for frequent use than threads cut directly into material. Unlike heat-set inserts, they can be used in a wide variety of plastics, including thermoset plastics that can’t be reformed.

To install, position these inserts in your mold cavity with a core pin (not included).

Add threads to untapped holes in aluminum and other soft metal. Since these inserts are tapered, they align with the hole as you press them in. The knurls grip the material to keep inserts from twisting once installed. Inserts can also be used to add threads to tubing. Install them with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

These tools install prongless helical inserts, also known as tangless inserts. Screw the insert onto your installation tool and drive it between a quarter-turn and half-turn below the surface.

Press these inserts into a drilled hole, then install a screw to expand them. Inserts won't lose their strength as you remove and reinsert screws during inspection or repair. The sharp diamond knurls dig into the surrounding material for a stronger hold than other press-in inserts for plastic. Install inserts with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

For a more secure hold than other screw-to-expand inserts, fins cut into the surrounding plastic. Press or hammer these inserts into a drilled hole and then install a screw to expand the fins.

Guide the tapered end of these inserts into a hole for quick alignment, and then mount components onto the male threaded end. To install, first drill a hole into your plastic workpiece and taper the top half. Then, heat the insert on a hot plate and press the knurled end into the hole.

The barbed sides keep these inserts in place before a screw is installed. They're faster and easier to install in plastic than heat-set or mold-in inserts. However, they lack the same holding power, so they're best for parts that are rarely disassembled. Install inserts with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

Press these inserts into a through hole from the underside of your material, and the flange keeps them from going too far. Then, thread in a screw to expand the insert, driving the sharp diamond knurls into the plastic. Install using an arbor press or similar pressure tool. Installed length includes the flange.

Cleanly snap prongs off installed helical inserts with just one hand. Because they work faster than standard prong break-off tools, these are a good choice when you have many prongs to remove. Press your tool into an insert to trigger the spring-loaded punch and snap off the prong.

Quicker to install than standard heat-set inserts, these go in either way. There’s no need to check which end is up, so they’re ideal for automated production of parts. Press inserts into straight holes that have been drilled, printed, or molded into plastic. Use a soldering tip to heat them and melt the surrounding material, fusing it to the insert’s sharp ridges.

Add strong, reusable metal threads to plastic. These inserts have external threads that bite into your material to resist pull-out better than press-in inserts. They're a more durable solution than threads cut directly into plastic. Inserts also have flutes that guide loose chips up and out of the way to keep threads clean. To install inserts with a wrench, thread an insert and two hex nuts onto a bolt. Then, grip and turn the top nut to drive into a drilled hole. You can save time by using an installation tool with a ratchet wrench or drill press. Also known as Trisert inserts.

Create a secure base for fasteners in plastic, including brittle 3D printed parts. Press these inserts into straight holes that have been drilled, printed, or molded into plastic. Then, heat them with a soldering tip to melt the surrounding material. As the plastic cools, it fuses to the sharp, diagonal ridges around the inserts, which prevents them from being twisted or pulled out. The interior is fully threaded, so you can access the threads from both sides of a through hole. Also known as Chevron and headed inserts.