3 1/2" Long—3 _1/2 lg. bolts are often used when the toilet flange is below the finished floor.

Style A—Install Style A directly on top of a damaged or rusted rusted flange—no need to remove the original. Screw them directly to the floor.

Style B—Install Style B directly on top of a damaged or rusted rusted flange—no need to remove the original. Screw them directly to the floor. Style B flanges don't extend past the existing flange, so they're best for repairing flanges set below the finished floor.

Style C—Style C include everything you need to repair a broken flange. Use the washers to position the repair bar under the broken piece, then secure it in place.

Style E—Style E allow you to offset the flange face up to _3/4" from the base in any direction, so you can reposition a toilet without modifying your drain. The base has a rubber gasket to seal your pipe.

Adjustment Bolts—Flanges with adjustment bolts can be installed up to 3" above the top of your pipe, so you can match the height of finished floors. When you tighten the bolts, a compression joint expands to press against the walls of the pipe, holding it in place.

ABS—ABS is more impact resistant than PVC.

PVC—PVC spacers adhere to an existing toilet flange with PVC primer and cement, also known as solvent weld, or with silicone sealant. Stack multiple spacers to raise the flange height so it is flush with or above the finished floor.

Polypropylene—Polypropylene spacer kits include the components required to lift the flange up to 1 _5/8". They are easier to install than individual spacers because they do not require silicone sealant. They include a toilet mounting flange that sits on top of the existing flange for a level mounting surface.