Create squares, coils, and S-shapes. This bender can be mounted to your bench top or clamped in a vise.

Edge bending kit attaches to the bender and includes three discs to bend the edge of flat material.

Circle pins make additional sizes of bends and coils.

Reach inside panels, disconnects, and raceway to bend and position heavy duty cable with greater precision and less fatigue than bending by hand. The dies on the ends of these benders are sized to handle large wire gauges; fit your cable into the dies and push or pull the handle to bend.

Keep style A benders in your belt pouch for on-the-fly bends and especially tight spots. They attach to a standard 1/2" square drive ratchet wrench, which acts as the handle.

Style B benders have dies on both ends of the handle. The dies on one end of the bender are oriented differently than the dies on the other end, so if one end doesn't give you the leverage you need, you can flip the bender around and use the other end.

Especially useful for bending cable inside an enclosure, style C benders include a bender and a T-handle adapter. Fit the adapter into the center of the bender to use it like a large T-handle key or lug wrench. In the T-handle configuration, the tool delivers more torque than a bender alone. You can also use the bender by itself—the dies on either end of the bender are oriented differently, which means you can flip the bender around if one end doesn't give you the leverage you need.

For the most versatility, and for bending the thickest cable, style D benders include two long benders and one T-handle adapter. With a 22"-lg. bender in each hand, you'll have the most possible leverage—place the cable between the dies, and squeeze the two benders together like a bolt cutter. Another option, which is good for bending cable that's already inside an enclosure, is to attach the handle adapter to the bender to create a T- or L-shaped lug wrench. As a third option, use either one of the straight-handle benders on its own.

Smooth dies wear less on the cable's insulation than knurled dies but are also more likely to slip.

Knurled dies provide better grip and leverage on large cable than smooth dies but might scuff and wear soft insulation material.

With hardened rollers and precision-machined gears, these rolling mills stand up to heavy use. They’re often used to compress sheets to an uncommon gauge size, convert scrap metal into sheets or wire, or create different thicknesses in a single piece of metal without welding multiple pieces together. After several passes through the mill, you may need to anneal your metal to soften it and prevent cracking.

Manual mills are gear driven, making them easier to turn than direct-drive rolling mills. Their rollers have grooves so you can form square and half-round wire in addition to sheets.

Gear speed ratio indicates the force it takes to turn the output gear. For instance, the manual rolling mill has a 4:1 gear ratio, meaning that you rotate the handle four times to turn the gear powering the rollers once.

Designed for looping and bending wire, these tools are also known as round-nose pliers. They have plastic grips for comfort.

Choose these stainless steel pliers for environments where moisture and other contaminants are present. They resist corrosion that can hinder joint movement, but the jaws will wear more quickly than a steel tool. Also known as round-nose pliers, use them for looping and bending wire. They have plastic, static-dissipative grips that drain static away from your application, preventing buildup from electrostatic discharge (ESD) that can damage sensitive equipment. The jaws are spring assisted to open automatically when you release the handles.

Deep serrations provide the firm grip necessary for pulling rebar tie wire, and the hook-shaped handle end keeps your hand from slipping off. Also known as ironworkers’ pliers, these tools also bend and cut wire. They have plastic grips for comfort. The jaws are spring assisted to open automatically when you release the handles.